Some hints on fork repair by Richard Cook
























First Jack up and block the bike. Next loosen the axle lock bolt shown above. It is undercut so that just loosening it a bit and tapping the nut will allow you to remove the axle. The axle has a left hand (backwards) thread.

Remove the snap on cover after removing wheel, brake, and fender (note where fender mounts), put a towel over painted surfaces.

Slide the cover shown up. This may require twisting, forcing, and cursing.

Use tool from kit as shown, pipe wrench, strap wrench, or at the worst chisel, to turn the    bushing housing to the right until it separates from the lower leg.

Remove cap bolt and control rod

After you lift up the cap bolt you will see where the control rod attaches with a 14 mm or  9/16 lock nut. Hold the bolt with a spanner, loosen the lock nut and hold the control rod while unscrewing the cap bolt.

Remove lower leg

Just loosen the pinch bolt on the lower triple tree. (The manual calls it connecting board, I have always heard them called triple trees.) A half inch drive socket that just matches the tube top and an extension can be used in place of a drift to drive the tube down and out.

Inspect tube and seal

Now the tube and the seal are free and can be inspected. Unless the seal is new it is good practice to replace it whenever removed. Since you have changed seals and installed the tubes it is time to slide the lower legs on. Always put a bit of lube on seal surfaces.

Installing the lower leg

You can either put a piece of coat hanger or welding rod on the control rod with tape, or       fish it out after installation.

After you slide the leg back on insert the axle to hold it while you reinstall the control rod at the top and tighten the seal retainer. I greased my bushings and tubes with disk brake wheel bearing grease and added fork fluid before installing the leg. You can also add the fluid from the top. I sealed my retainer with silicone seal, red Locktite on all fork lock bolts, and just a dab of silicone seal on the cap bolt.

If there is a visibly worn area or extensive scratching replace the tube. If the bushings are not within a couple of thousandths you may wish to replace those also. Use a block of wood to cushion your hammer while you reinsert the tube from the bottom. Pull it into place with the cap nut, give it one more tap and tighten, and tighten the pinch bolt.

Almost done

As they always say reinstall everything. Make sure you added the fork lube and a bit of Locktite won’t hurt those fender bolts. In the picture I am rethreading the axle lock bolt to 5/16 24 to install a locknut. This bolt is so soft I will replace it with a grade six the next time I have it out.